Twills for weave

A lining fabric made in 1 X 5 twill weave from a cotton warp and alpaca weft. About 80 ends and 72 picks per inch, 2/60's cotton warp, 26's alpaca weft (see Twills for weave)

A heavy fabric for bags, sacks, etc., made of jute yarns, 44 in. wide, in 2 X 1 twill weave. The warp is two-fold, 10-lb. per spindle, and weft about 32-lb. per spindle. There are three blue stripes in the width of the cloth.

Very coarse jute fabric for making bags, etc., 48-in. X 28-in. bags, 2³/₄-lb., 2 X 2 twill weave.

A fabric, originally used for curtains in the 18th century and made with a white warp and dyed weft at Amiens, and also in England in the 2 & 2 twill weave. Now the fabric is made from grey warp and dyed weft, worsted yarns, about 60 ends and 72 picks per inch, 62's yarns.

Cloths for the China market made in 2 & 1 twill weave, dyed black, mercerised, and schreiner finished. Made in 31-in., 90 yards, 72 ends and 96 picks per inch, 22's warp, 22's weft, all American cotton yarns.

A coarse, woollen cloth known as early as the 12th century, a finer quality being called " say." It was much used during the Middle Ages for all portions of attire by the poorer classes, and in the piece for the decoration of houses. ———————— The specification issued by the U.S.A. Government is as follows: - Cotton and worsted serge for overcoat lining shall be of single or 2-ply cotton warp and single or 2-ply worsted filling, the wool to be not below 46's grade; the width shall be full 36-in. exclusive of the selvedge and shall weigh from 6-oz. to 7-oz. per linear yard; it shall be woven in regular serge weave and constructed so as to give a fabric with good body and twill line on the face and containing approximately equal quantities of worsted and cotton yarns throughout; to be navy-blue, fast to the light, with both sets of threads and to be put up into bookfold. ———————— This term was formerly applied in Yorkshire to rough handling coarse wool fabrics woven in a twill design. An old 6-end serge was a simple diagonal 3 up, 1 down, 1 up, 1 down. The term serge is now almost universally understood to mean the 2 & 2 twill, and sometimes the 3 & 3 and the 4 & 4 twills. In wool fabrics it is the practice to add to the name serge, the definition of botany to distinguish fine wool serges from cross-bred qualities. A typical botany worsted serge, 2 & 2 twill weave, 21-02. per yard, 56/58-in. is made with 2/20's worsted 64/70's quality, S twist, 46 ends and 46 picks per inch, 72-in. wide in loom, woven white arid piece-dyed. The cloth is clear finished so as to obtain a well-defined twill effect. A usual weight for ladies' costume serge is 12/13-oz. per yard. Serges are made in many qualities ranging from 12-oz. to 26-oz. per yard. Crossbred worsted yarns are used in making the rougher and stronger types, while woollen yarns are also used. A serge which is extensively used in uniforms for transport workers is made with two-fold cross-bred worsted yarn for warp and single Cheviot woollen yarn for weft. The cloth is woven white or grey and piece-dyed.

The name given to the ordinary twill weave 2/2 by the American traders. "Shalloon" applied to this twill is not correct, since a shalloon is a very good quality woollen cloth (see Shalloon), whereas American twills are cotton fabrics. The American cloth varies in weight, such as 38-in., 64 X 60, 36/24, 2 X 2 twill. 36-in., 68 X 66, 40/32, 2 X 2 twill. ———————— A light woollen cloth used as linings for coats, liveries, etc., made from hard-twisted yarns in 2 & 2 twill weave, usually 30-in. to 40-in. wide and 36 yards long. Dyed in browns and blacks principally. It was originally manufactured at Chalons in France, whence it was first imported, and of which its name is a corruption.

A heavy drill cloth, woven in the 3 X 1 weave, and dyed black with a glossy finish. Variety is obtained by introducing the satin weave and cords in length-wise stripes, and small spots. Qualities vary up to 130 ends and 68 picks. A typical make is 29-in. wide, 92/48 per inch, 2/32's T., 20's W. Another make is 48-in. splits, 116/48 per inch, 28's T., 12's W. The illustration shows a black China coating with cords ———————— A general term in the woollen trade for the heavy fabrics from which ladies' coats are made. They include twills, honeycombs, stripes, checks, and many other effects.

A French-made silk cloth used for dress purposes, handkerchiefs, etc. Twill weave, and made on both hand and power looms, very light yarns of Jap silk are used. The cloth is made from dyed yarns and in a few qualities only. ———————— A soft light-weight, all-wool dress fabric woven in nearly invisible cords or twills or in fine basket-weave effect.

This class of fabric is largely used in the wool industry for making coatings and dress fabrics of a medium weight. They are really the backs of corkscrew weaves stitched to produce reasonable imitations of common twills on the back of the fabric. All ends and picks weave on both sides of the cloth. Most simple weaves can be re-arranged to produce an appearance similar to a backed cloth and all weaves arranged on the warp principle will be applicable for the weft principle when turned round.

The French word for " cut through." Denotes cut cashmere weave, or lines cutting the twills lengthwise of the piece.

(Lit. a gown piece). The native term for the wool fabric made at Cashmere of Pashmina wool in 54-in. width and 3³/₄ yard lengths. The weave is usually plain, but twills are sometimes used. There are many varieties, as follows. These are in value order, the first being the most expensive: - Chaporast, Kaddhar, Thaldar, Duazdehkhat, Duazdeh-Rang, Dogul, Kalmkar, Gulisant, Khatherast, Redabutha, Lakheangur, Guleparwane, Barghebed, Islimi, Marpech, Mehramat, Safed, Sabzkar and Kaynamu.

Wide, heavy Russian woollen dress fabrics, twills or plain weave. Widths from 48-in. upwards, the yarns are coarse and the fabric is used for winter clothing.

A fabric, originally used for curtains in the 18th century and made with a white warp and dyed weft at Amiens, and also in England in the 2 & 2 twill weave. Now the fabric is made from grey warp and dyed weft, worsted yarns, about 60 ends and 72 picks per inch, 62's yarns.